You can't really use an inkjet to proof your type; the output is invariably heavier no matter how good the paper is. Even a laser can be quite unpredictable. You have to always keep the toner at a reasonable level, otherwise it is hard to have a consistent distribution of toner on the page. I have an HP LaserJet 6MP. It's 600 dpi and it served me well for seven years, but I could do with a better machine. You can pick up a 1200 x 1200 dpi HP for well under $1000 now, so don't go for a used one.

Um, is there some reason folks on Typophile overwhelmingly use pics of themselves as infants, adolescents, or young adults (Hrant)?

Gerald, right on. I'm getting fed up with the kiddie photos.

My picture is old, but it's still mostly what I look like (now that the goatee is back), so...

hhp

Beware laser printers that are not true PostScript. Most low-cost ones out there are PostScript emulators. When I was in the market for a new printer a couple of years ago, after the death of my beloved Personal NTR, I went through a hellish process of trying to find a reasonably priced laser with real PostScript.

The problem is that most salespeople have absolutely no idea what the difference is, and some manufacturers are not totally up-front about the fact that theirs is an emulator. I bought a couple and then returned them, after discovering that the emulation was beyond awful.

I finally ended up finding a used Apple 16/600 (which is very similar -- if not identical, structurally -- to an HP 5MP, I believe), and it creaks a little, but I'm plenty satisfied. I paid $225 for it.

>

I'm a big Xante fan. Have a B&W 2400dpi and 1200dpi color in the studio both with PostScript 3. Maybe a tad expensive but very nice!

> For proofing body typefaces

How big is the difference between 1200 and 2400?

More than the rendering of details, what seems to change most significantly with resolution
is typographic color: lower resolutions come out darker. Is 2400 much lighter than 1200?

hhp

Thanks everyone.

James, the Xante sounds unbelievable! The cost is also unbelievable. Wow! Need some proceeds from the fonts before I'm ready to take the plunge.

Is there anything used or otherwise that is useful to proof fonts at 8-12pt for less than $1000? Doesn't need to be a fancy network printer or anything.

Thanks,
Randy

Thanks Peter,

Forgot to mention, would be really nice if it did 11x17.
The agency I used to work for had a Xante Accel-a-Writer
2800 that did tabloid, but it must be 10 years old by now. Surely something newer?

Randy

Randy, I'd especially be interested to [eventually] find out how your 1200 dpi output compares to 2400+ dpi lino, in terms of texture and color of small type.

hhp

Robert, if you have some small (like maybe 8-9 point) serif text on your Xante, how different does it look than the same thing on imagesetter? I mean especially in overall darkness, but also of texture/details. Thanks.

hhp

Peter: You need good paper though...it make all the difference.

Robert: thicker paper = thicker type.

So paper makes a difference. What are the best types of paper for proofing on laser printers?

Good point; the darkening is much more severe with small point sizes.

I have attached two versions, one at actual size (at 72 dpi) and one close up. I think that they will give an idea of the difference. I had to get rid of the paper texture (the printed example was on very textured paper) but I tried to keep the type from bulging. I hope these examples appear. I have never posted to a forum before yesterday, and am a little new to this.

The details (in my opinion) are captured well (except for very fine differences) however the feeling is generally darker. This can be a problem when you are dealing with the color of the text in comparison with other graphic elements, or very large type (which looks impecable) with small type.






However, despite these shortcomings, I am still very pleased with the printer. When we print out first pages for a book, it takes only 1 hour, with no printing errors (aside from our own). This is in comparison to the day and a half we used to have to set aside for printing on our ink jet... and I cringe to think of all of the streaked sheets... and the cost of ink!

I hope all this helps,
Robert

P.S. I actually have been wondering about something related to this topic and I wonder if anyone has any thoughts...

Has the direct-to-plate technology changed the thickness and color of type (made it thicker)?

I have wondered about how the films (which are negatives) made type thinner, especially thin lines. However, direct-to-plate, which I think is more similar to a laser printer, dosen't go through the negative step, and may reseult in thicker type. Or type that is more like laser output.